More Information

Hints for Fitting Chaps:

1. Chaps can be adjusted from the back (if laced in back) or from the belt area.
2. The chap zipper should always run down the same seam as your pants.
3. Chaps too big in the waist with the belt pulled in too much will cause the zipper to come forward.  The reverse will happen if the belt must be let out all the way. The belt should buckle in the middle not at either end.
4. People with short waists may need to have the chap altered to fit them correctly as the chap my be riding too high on the waist.
5. The back of the chaps should not need an extender unless you are big in the waist and very small in the legs. In the case where a girl has small waist and big thighs she needs to get the chaps to fit her in the thighs first (the hardest place to fit) then the waist second. The waist be adjusted by over lapping the adjustment area in the center back or by having the waist band customized.
6. Chaps should not be real tight on the thigh because it can cause you to lose circulation while you are riding. It will also make them uncomfortable if you “layer  up”.  You should be able to slide your hand under the top of the chap while sitting down.
7. The length of the chap is up to the person wearing them however it is advisable that you sit down and extend your leg. This will assure that the chap will not ride up while riding.  If a chap drags on the ground behind the boot, it is not that the chap is necessarily too long but that the leg is too wide.  At this point an alteration can correct the problem.
8. People with large stomachs, may have a problem with getting the chaps or with bending to zip them up. This can be eliminated by the use of leggings chaps instead of traditional chaps.

Measuring for Chaps:

All measurements must be taken while wearing riding clothes and boots.
All measurements must be taken be taken snuggly but not tight. Allow one inch for expansion.

• Around the waist or hip, depending upon where you want the chaps to ride.
• Length from top of chap belt to 3” below crotch.
• Length from top of chap to floor with boots on.
• Thigh measurement where chap will ride which is again 3” from crotch.
• Knee circumference measurement.
• Calf circumference measurement (with boots on if you wear calf high boots).
• Ankle circumference measurement (with boots on).

Mildew

Storing chaps, jackets and gloves in saddlebags, plastic bags or in trunks is not advised as any moisture from the elements in the leather itself can start the mildew process.  Even if the leather is put away dry, in a humid climate, the mildew process will eventually set in.

Mildew is easy to detect on dark colored leathers. It will appear somewhat “dusty white”, grey or green and depending on how long it has been growing, it will have an odor.

1. The best way to start cleaning mildewed leather is to use a warm damp rag. On the suede side use the damp rag and a soft brush or balled up dry terry cloth towel which will help in getting the suede back to the way it should look; soft and somewhat “fluffy”.
2. Kill the mold spores in the leather. In a clean container, mix equal parts plain cool water and rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol). Use a clean white cloth dipped in the mixture to wipe down the leather. For shoes, use a cotton swab to reach crevices and difficult to reach trimmed areas. **If you are cleaning a colored leather such as red, blue etc. check for color fastness by trying this mixture on a small unnoticeable corner first.
3. Fiebings Saddlesoap is an excellent product to use for cleaning leather whether it be bugs or mildew; it softens, cleans and conditions. There are lots of products on the market made for cleaning leather and conditioning leather, here are some excellent ones from my buddies at Fox Creek Leather  https://www.foxcreekleather.com/accessories/leather-care/

If you prefer, you can apply a coat of light oil such as vegetable oil, canola oil or olive oil to the top grain side (the shinny side) instead.  It may take a bit of time to soak in so you can use a hairdryer on WARM not hot to heat the leather and encourage the oil to soak in. Use your hands to massage the oil or store bought conditioner cleaner into the leather and work the leather to soften it.

Remember leather is a made up of fibers which, like your muscles can become stiff. The moisture from the damp rage will help soften the fibers and open them up so the oil or conditioner soaks in. You may want to apply more than one coat.

The back side of the leather can also be oiled, however keep in mind that oiling suede may cause oil to come off on your clothing. If the jacket or chaps are lined and the mildew is in the fabric then you can take a damp rag only to the fabric also, do not oil the lining and test a small unnoticeable for alcohol tolerance.

After the leather product is cleaned you will have to air it out to start the removal of the mildew smell. In cases where the mildew was bad, there is no guarantee that the smell will come out.

Unfortunately, mildew is very hard and sometimes impossible to get rid of once it roots in leather. Once in the leather it can begin to grow again; faster. The mold spores can be air born in a closet, taken root in leather saddlebags where chaps or jackets were stored and more. Regular cleaning and a dry storage environment is the only way to keep it from getting started in the first place.

General Cleaning of Leather

Bugs, road grit and wind can take a toll on your leather gear and your leather saddlebags.  Leather can get so dried out that it will become brittle, crack and break, there is no turning back at this point. Leather is a skin that needs “nourishment”; oils and conditioners.

It is easy to maintain your gear through regular cleaning, even if only once a year. Start with a damp cloth as mention above, removing bugs, dust and grit. Next follow Step Three for conditioning.

Remember to store your leather goods in a dry closet with plenty of room so that it can “breath”. You will be glad you did!

Ace High Leathers is committed to excellence in craftsmanship and service. If for any reason you are not fully satisfied with the product please contact me immediately. The item must be returned within 30 days of receipt.

All items must be returned in like new unused condition. All refunds will occur after the product has been received and inspected. Customer to pay the cost of return shipping via USPS Priority Mail with tracking number.

All products are covered by a one year limited warranty to be free from production defects. This warranty does not cover any product that has not been properly cared for as instructed by Ace High Leathers. Not “properly cared for” means any product that has been left for an unlimited amount of time in the elements such as sun or rain and has not been treated as recommended using various leather care products.

Any order found to have been altered or “corrected” in any way before one year from the date of delivery by a business or person other than someone recommended by Ace High Leathers voids the one year guarantee which accompanies custom made products. This also voids free clean and conditioning of products as well.

Any order found to be short on quantity must be inspected by the customer and reported to Ace High Leathers within 7 days of receipt.

International customers must pay all shipping fees on international shipments, both returns, and exchanges. Ace High Leathers is not responsible for any brokerage, duties, clearance fees, added value taxes, and/or other fees incurred. Note to international customers only: do not ship returns to us via UPS.

In the event of cancellation, custom order deposits will be forfeited if production on that item has begun and/or if materials for that particular project has been purchased by Ace High Leathers.

Template deposits are non-refundable.

Closeout or Sale Items are final.

Contact me for further questions